Selections From The Splinters - Volume 14

J. Blickensderfer, Jr., Esq.,
Chief Engineer, Atlantic & Pacific RR.,

Sir:

In accordance with your letter of instructions, dated June 27, 1871. I proceeded to New Mexico and prepared the parties of R. J. Lawrence and F. S. Hodges for the field. The latter having already been in the field some time, required only a few additional animals and fresh supplies, but for the other an entire new outfit was required, and for it were obliged - for want of time - to make selections to take transportation of an indifferent character both as to animals and wagons.

On the 17th of July, Mr. Lawrence party started from Albuquerque for Sunset Crossing on the Little Colorado river, at which point they were to begin the work of survey and carry it on to the Great Colorado, distant about three hundred miles.

I addressed to Mr. Hodges a letter of general instructions, a copy of this accompanies this report.

Although there were surveyed or to be surveyed but two approaches to the valley of the Rio Grande from the east, the one by the way of the Gallisteo above Albuquerque and the other by Tejiras Canon below it. I still deemed it proper that a line should be run from Albuquerque directly west. I directed also a continuation of the Tejiras Canon Line (which reached the Rio Grande at Isleta) to the Rio Puerco, thence up the El Rito or San Jose river to Campbells or Navajo Pass.

The natural extension westward of the Gallisteo line reaching the river near San Felipe was by way of the Rio Jemez and north of San Mateo or Mt. Taylor and falling into the line just mentioned at or near Agua Azul, twenty miles east of Campbells Pass summit.

As Agua Frio, another pass of the Sierra Madre, is mentioned in the Company's charter and was highly spoken of by parties in New Mexico, Mr. Hodges was afterward directed to make a close reconnaissance of it. This line would leave the valley of San Jose at or near a point known as the "Picket Post" and bearing to the left or south, pass by "Old Fort Wingate, Agua Frio and the Zuni villages, intersect the line in the valley of the "Puerco of the West", a few miles below Navajo Springs.

From Campbells Pass westward, there can be but one route, namely down the Puerco of the West and the Little Colorado to Sunset Crossing.

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Having decided to superintend in person the surveys west of Sunset Crossing, I overtook Mr. Lawrences party on the 19th.. Two additional assistants joined me, Mr. A. K. Robinson on the 21st and Mr. N. B. Kendall on the 24th at Ft. Wingate. At this point a delay of a day took place preparing wagons and getting forage.

We were joined on the 25th by our escort, consisting of forty men of the 8th U.S. Cavalry under command of Captain A.B. Kauffman and moved westward.

On July 31st, we reached Sunset Crossing from whence I wrote Mr. Hodges with suggestions concerning his line up to that point, a copy of which letter is annexed hereto.

From Sunset Crossing westward the route is described in the act of Congress as being "Along the thirty fifth parallel of latitude, as near as may be found most suitable for a railway route to the Colorado River at such a point as may be selected by said company for crossing."

On this portion of the line was apprehended the most difficult part of our work, difficult for want of correct information as to the detail, of its topography and in facilities for conducting the survey. The Mogollon range of Mountains which here present themselves, constitute a spur of offshoot of the Sierra Madre, branching northwesterly from the latter near the headwaters of the Gila, where they are called the Sierra Blanca, then Mogollon Mountains and terminating in the San Francisco Mountains and the Colorado Plateau and around which the Little and Great Colorado make a great detour, the head of the former being about latitude 33 degrees 40 minutes and the extreme northern point of the bend 36 degrees 30 minutes.

It was a question whether to swing to the northward from Sunset Crossing, which may be considered a fixed point on the route of the "thirty-fifth parallel" and keeping as near the water course of the Little and then the Great Colorado as possible, thus reach a point on the latter whence a good line could be obtained to the Pacific; or on the other hand to find a suitable pass south of San Francisco Mountain that would lead to the same point.

The results of earlier explorations as well as our own, developed the fact that although the ascent of the Mogollon Range could be accomplished with easy grades by rising out of the valley of the Little Colorado from near the mouth of the Puerco of the West, it would be at the expense of heavy work and a great amount of curvature. Also, having reached the summit in this direction, it was found that the headwaters of the Verdi, such as Clear creek, Beaver dam Fork, etc. cut so deep into the western slope of the range as to be inaccessible from this summit. Another feature

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presented itself, that of handling all the waters of the Verdi, but this would have carried us to the right of Bill Williams Mountain and as far north as the line which afterwards was run. It having been established by Whipple, Beale and the late surveys of the Kansas Pacific Railway that Fonto Pass, south and close to the San Francisco Mountain, was as low if not lower than any other point of the range, it was in that direction that I looked for a line.

From Sunset Crossing a direct course to Fonto Pass (sometime called Leroux Summit) was explored by Mr. Kendall, who reports "the country for" greater part of the way is broken into detached masses of sand stone that would necessitate a great amount of rock cutting in order to preserve a good alignment. He also discovered that the four canons Mentioned by General Palmer, viz. - Diablo, Pine Cottonwood and Padre come together and have one outlet near the Dog Buttes.

Below their junction seemed the proper place to cross these canons and thence up Walnut Canon to the summit.

North of San Francisco Mountain, a reconnaissance was made by Mr. Robinson, who reports the summit crossed by him to be 7400 feet above tide, but one hundred feet lower than Leroux. This summit lies between the main mountain and O'Learjo Peak the latter throwing out a bold spur to the northward, the turning of which could only be accomplished by a detour extending almost to the junction of the Big and Little Colorado.

The country between New Year Springs and the Red Butte, I explored personally, and found that the "Colorado Plateau" is deeply scored with canons, which through they do not present themselves when viewing the plateau from the mountain, slopes around it, are still found to be wide and deep enough to preclude any possibility of getting a cheap and direct railroad line over them. My examination of this plateau further westward established this additional fact, that if it were possible by any means to bring a line across as far as Diamond river, such line must, before reaching that stream, cross to the right or west bank of the Colorado or turning to the left, keep south of Music Mountain throwing it upon the line we have surveyed.

The descent from Leroux summit I was led to believe could be made to the best advantage by keeping as far as possible, the divide between the waters, flowing northward by cataract creek to the Colorado river and those flowing southward to the Verdi. It was known that these waters interlocked but to what extent, was not known until we had run considerable distance of useless line (useless except in developing the topography of the country) and the Country had been thoroughly reconnoitered by my assistants.

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The line southward by Aztec Pass was found to require a descent by way of Partridge creek into Chino valley and an ascent of 1500 feet, to the summit of the pass and would after passing the summit continue with undulating grades across Muddy, White Cliff and Big Sandy Creeks, the headwaters of Bill Williams River. The descent to the Colorado by the latter stream was considered but it would carry the line due or even a little east of south for more than sixty miles, and although the grades would probably be favorable, the work would be very extensive and the line would strike the Colorado River at a point unfavorable for bridging or western prolongation.

From the divide of Partridge and Cedar Creeks before mentioned, the best line was found to be after crossing Upper Chino and Aubrey valleys to follow the drainage of the Yampa which lies between the route over the Colorado Plateau and that by Aztec Pass and has an almost due west course until reaching a point near Peacock Mountain, where the Cerbat Mountains, lying nearly north and south, present themselves directly in front and being to high to cross can only be passed by going by sink of Yampa drainage known as Red Lake and strike the Colorado at or about El Dorado Canon. Though this would probably be the best route from Peacock Mountain to the river the outlet westward and approaching the Sierra Nevada is reported impracticable. For this reason and also because the surveys west of the Colorado were directed to the crossing of that river at the Needles, twenty or twenty five miles below Ft. Mojave, the route south of the Cerbat Mountains was chosen.

At Railroad or Wallapi Pass, where the Cerbat Range send out in a southeasterly direction a low spur connecting it with the Wallapi Mountains, the line enters Sacramento Valley following which in a southerly direction some twenty five miles it turns west at Mojave Gap and reaches the river at the Needles in twenty five mile.

From Wallapi Pass, Beales wagon road was carried due west, but here on the west side of Sacramento valley lying nearly north and south, like the Cerbet and Wallapi mountains are the Blue or Black Mts. Parallel to the Colorado river and too close to admit of a descent from their summit to it.

THE "LINE" IN DETAIL

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on this line for but the one grade descending westward, through to avoid Apachi Canon may require some slight descent into the valley and several other undulations appears on the profile.

The alignment generally is good, excepting at the Laguna villiage and from McCarty' ranch westward for three or four miles, at these two places will also occur the heaviest work.

The Northern line leaving the Rio Grande at the mouth of the Jemez, following up the latter 19 or 20 miles and then its tributary the Rio Salinas nearly as much further, reaches the divide in thirty eight miles rising about 1200 feet. We are here two and a half miles from the Puerco but it only requires 150 feet fall to reach that stream.

Between the Puerco and the point of junction of these two lines (which is a few miles west of Agua Azul) (and seventeen miles east of Campbells Pass) three descents westward are necessary on the northern line, and we find that line has a total descent westward of 790 feet against 300 feet on the Southern Line.

If we make Albuquerque the initial point of both lines the total rise and fall will be 2410 feet for southern and 3390 feet for northern and the distance 117-1/2 by former and 133-1/2 by the latter. The line to ascend Puerco summit with a 53 feet grade from Rio Salinas will increase distance on northern line and the ascent on this line to San Mateo summit it is proposed to make with the same grade, but in order to do so, the curvatures will be sensibly increased and a mile of distance added. Though the line from Albuquerque directly across the ridge between the Rio Grande and the Puerco did not prove satisfactory, I think it will not be necessary to follow the river to Isleta in order to cross that ridge, but by keeping between these two lines, reach the low point in it without any descent at all from Albuquerque

Mr. Hodges ascertained the features of Agua Frio line by an instrument survey. He found the summit to be 750 feet higher than Campbells pass and in order to reach it, grades of 90 to 116 feet were required and even with these a tunnel of 5000 feet is necessary.

From Agua Azul to Campbells Pass the line is direct and ascends 480 feet in about twenty miles; the profile is also remarkably smooth.

From this summit the descent of the "Puerco of the West" begins, presenting a most inviting valley for the location of a railroad line; it is straight, there being but one point, namely Puerco Canon where much change of direction is required. The

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introduction here of two miles of heavy work (perhaps not heavier than that encountered in the canon, would obviate this and save a mile of distance)

From Signal Hill five or six miles west of Navajo Springs, the line should keep the south or left side of Puerco Valley as there appears to be fewer water courses entering the valley from that side and it gives a better crossing of the Little Colorado where it has rock banks, ten to fifteen feet high and gives a direct and exceedingly cheap line to Sunset Crossing, distant from the Rio Grande 283 miles, by the San Mateo and 273-1/2 by the San Jose lines, form Albuquerque by the same lines it is respectively 304-1/2 and 288-1/2 miles.

We have now arrived at the point where the work of survey was taken up by Mr.R. J. Lawrence. The line westward for twenty six miles lies in the flats of Little Colorado, crossing one or two low gravel spurs that project across the valley and cause some slight undulation of grade but with very slight work indeed. There are water courses to be crossed but they have so little fall that at no time will any great head of water be encountered. At the end of those twenty six miles, begins the ascent of San Francisco Mountain, which was so directed as to (4-1/2 miles further on) cross canon Diablo below the junction with its tributaries and where its width is 130 feet requiring a bridge of 160 to 180 feet in length and through nearly 150 feet deep, the sides are solid rock up to the surface. The ascent from canon Diablo is continued over very smooth ground for 5-1/2 miles where it becomes necessary to descent to lower grade in order to follow up the drainage of Walnut Canon which is done on very regular surface as far as Station 2445. From this point the survey bore off to the right in order to pass a cluster of buttes, left it beyond doubt that the line should have followed that course and it was my intention to run such a one on out return, but was prevented by a severe snow storm and want of men, it being two miles of distance and 64 feet of rise and fall. This proposed line is indicated on the map.

Passing by Cosninos Caves and the lava ridge to the west of them, we have some rough ground, but the grade of two feet per hundred shown on the profile can easily be reduced to 1-90/100 by swinging the line to the right at Station 3060 and coming into it again at 3180 and not increase distance more than a few hundred feet.

The profile shows another 2 per cent grade between 3290 and 3320 which may be reduced to 1-90/100 also. From Station 3345 to 3653 to line should bear to right as shown by dotted red line on map. At this point we reached the line upon which General

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Palmer reported, coming direct from Sunset Crossing by Diablo Pine, Cottonwood and Padre Canons, and which is but eight miles shorter than the line I have just described. From the reconnaissance made by Mr. Kendall of the eastern and myself of the western portion of this line (General Palmers) I am of the opinion the work, aside from crossing the canons much heavier than our surveyed line. From Station 3653 supporting ground, can be found so as to fit the grade on the profile by following the dotted line on Map to Station 3860. Thence to Station 4154 the line is as near its proper position as a preliminary line can be placed, through what is called "Kendalls Canon" located with easy curves would show somewhat heavier work than the present profile. From Station 4145 the grade line of 1.8 per hundred will be found near the dotted line on map.

From Leroux Summit (Fonto Pass) the line continued to Park Spring and New Year Spring, through Whipples Pass to the head waters of Cedar Creek which was found to lie so deep as to require a descent of 116 feet per mile.

This line was abandoned and a very thorough reconnaissance made of the country dividing the headwaters of the Rio Verde and Partidge creeks on the south from those of Lava and Cedar Creeks on the north. Upon this we returned our steps to Station 4390 whence a line was carried south of Mt. Sitgreaves along the northern foot of which ran the abandoned line. The new line continues near the heads of the streams above mentioned, but owing to the heavy growth of cedar and juniper, could not without an unnecessary expenditure of time and labor be laid as near the proper grade as in more open country, many of the smaller undulations can be thrown from the grade line on location.

The work at Laja Gap Summit which if reached on the line ran, would require a tunnel of 2000 feet with heavy approaches, may be very much reduced and tunnel thrown by following the line dotted on Map from Station 2453 (of 2nd hundred miles from Sunset Crossing) to 2790 involving an increase of distance of not more than one half mile and about doubling the amount of curvature.

West of Laja Summit a saving of 1-1/2 to 2 miles in distance may be effected by following the line dotted from Station 2805 to 3431; in this the work would perhaps be slightly increased.

At Mesa Gap we have a tunnel of 2000 feet; it is unavoidable, excepting by a detour to be mentioned hereafter, the change of line last mentioned will however, lighten the eastern approach. Westward from the tunnel the line instead of following the lowest ground should keep on the slopes of this Gap and emerge into Aubrey Valley as shown by the red dotted line. THis would of course involve a rougher profile than the present line but the grade could be kept below 100 feet per mile.

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From Partridge Creek Valley into that of Aubrey several lines present themselves, other than the one just described and which we surveyed, and but one of them I think bears any comparison with it. This one would diverge from the line of survey or a little west of the Forks of Partridge Creek and bearing to the left or south, cross the Laja range just north of Pineveta Mountain and some three or four miles south of our present crossing. This line would still bear to the left pass out of Upper Chino Valley below Kerlins well and crossing the head of Big Chino, enter Aubrey valley at Beales Pass. This line would avoid much of the heavy work at Laja Gap and all of that from Mesa Gap to Aubrey Valley, but it would increase the distance not less than ten miles; it would more than double the amount of curvature that now lies between the point of divergence and the junction and the height in elevation to be overcome no less than that on the line described. The line by the mouth of Partridge Creek, I did not consider worth an examination; its increase of distance, its heavy grades and its expensive work threw it out entirely. Those routes by which it was proposed to turn the Laja range on the north, all enter Aubrey Valley at Mesa Gap or one equally as high, and being so much out of the direct course, present no feature worthy of attraction.

We now cross Aubrey Valley with a very direct line and ascend 170 feet reach the descent to Yampa, the line still continuing very direct and over smooth ground we reach head of Yampa Canom at Station 4650 sixteen miles from the mouth of Mesa Gap.

The line through this canon can be kept up as to bring the grade within 100 feet per mile and necessitate not so heavy work as the profile at present shows. Then follows smooth and tolerably straight valley and just before reaching the end of the second hundred miles from Sunset Crossing the line enters another shallow canon, which with 1800 or 2000 feet radius will require no heavier work than that shown by the profile.

We now enter upon nine miles of very level and direct line and then enter Truxton Canon where is necessarily encountered heavy work for a distance of three miles, there will be a tunnel 400 feet long, several deep but short cuts through lava, five or six spans of truss bridge of 100 feet each, and change of channel in several places. The descent through the canon is rapid, but can be kept within 100 feet per mile. Through Truxton Canon and for two or three miles beyond the line runs nearly south, then bearing a little north of west follows the Yampa drainage until opposite the point of Peacock Mountain, it turns south again and running up Wallapi Valley with a tangent of seventeen miles arrives at Wallapi or Railroad Pass. There is an ascent westwardly of 275 feet which can be entirely avoided by running level from Station 1085 to Railroad Pass, which two points have the same

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elevation though it would be at the expense of the tangent above mentioned and a mile of increased distance. The work on the portion of the line, Truxton Canon to Railroad Pass, is extremely light. The descent from Railroad Pass into Sacramento Valley will require two and a half or three miles of heavy work (here will be but little lava however, to keep the grade within 100 feet per mile.) The line down this valley is straight through is general course is bad, being nearly south until at Mojave Gap passes through the Black Mountain Range and bears directly west for the river. From the point of leaving the Bayonet wash to the river, the material encountered is coarse sand and gravel; no rock is net with. The line crosses or runs parallel with numerous "Arroyas" or dry washes, which show that large bodies of water have flowed down them, but I doubt very much whether they now require much waterway. After passing Mojave Gap the line keeps in the wash, which spreads out in places for more than a mile in width, and three miles from the river leaving the wash and with a level grade runs out on the gravel bench, which is found more or less frequently on both sides of the river though at but few points extending to the waters edge as it does here. The west bank of the river is rock of volcanic formation and presents ample height (perhaps too much) for bridge seat, the bed of the river is sandy, not very quick however, and the sand but four or five feet deep, resting on a bed of clay on the east side and on the rock above mentioned on the west side.

Just where the line strikes the river, it averages eight to ten feet deep and has 745 feet width of water.

CHARACTER OF THE WORK

to be continued

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